Category Archives: Pre-Hornby

Japan-7

This is the closest photo I could find of a Norwegian coal transport. Minus the masts it resembles the Belnor.

I said before that the primary reason for a crew sailing on a coal carrier is to dock and undock the vessel. Almost all of the jobs for the day crew were essentially make-work. They wanted us to keep busy and, therefore, hopefully, out of trouble. Scrape rust, paint, scrape rust, paint, then scrape rust and paint again, this was our main job. The ship was only four years old; the carpenter told me that this was middle-aged and the only way for it to have a useful life it had to be protected from the rust all the time. I began learning how much I hate make-work: a lesson I’ve never really shaken all these years later.

When I resumed this story in 2005 I managed to find a pic of the Belnor on line. And, yes, the ship was scrapped when it turned the ripe old age of 8. Couldn’t find a picture this time. It was as if it hadn’t existed.

Once a week the crew would clean and polish the living area. This took a whole day and included mopping the floors, washing the walls and portholes, and finishing off by polishing everything that was brass. Only when comparing our vessel with the ships moored in Yokohama harbour did we realize that, as the hierarchy goes, this was an exceptionally functional and tidy ship. Part of the reason was, of course, the captain keeping a lid on the drinking.

Standard all over the world was the five and a half day work week. This was the norm those days I worked in the foundry and everybody was expected to head to work on Saturday for four hours. The same on ship. Saturday afternoon and all of Sunday belonged to you! We would read, write letters, and gather in the ship’s lounge where there was a fancy radio that would pull in stations from all over the Pacific. Ron and I could tune into Vancouver radio stations and get a little homesick. The second mate, who’s job it was, would dig into his supply of rented movies and every Sunday we would be treated to a full length feature on 16 millimeter (with sound and everything?)

The cook would outdo himself regularly for Sunday dinners. You can imagine how important good food became and we would salivate as we waited for what was usually some kind of meat extravaganza. Another daily treat was at 2:00; Teatime and the pastry cook would come up with enough great confections to make it one of the highlights of the day.

The day was purposely split into as many time consuming segments as possible and the meals plus teatime could last an hour or more. It was mandatory to have at least clean duds on for every meal. So, at the proper time, you would go to your cabin change out of your work gear, go to the dining room for the meal, then return to your cabin and change back into dirty clothes and go back to work. We would get up at six A.M. and do an hours work before changing for breakfast! Around 8 or 8:30 at night the workday would end and rest of the day was ours.

This was the day crews regime which Ron and I both belonged. Things were about to change as during our first week at sea Ron made an incredible mistake, which would change his status for the rest of the trip

to be continued…

Japan-5

On a coal carrier the crew has little do with loading and unloading except to open the hatches and, for the officers, oversee the operations. The coal is loaded with large chutes coming from structures like grain elevators. Railroad car after car is dumped at the terminus and returned to somewhere in Alberta, I imagine. So, on our first day of work we were allowed to watch as they buttoned down the last of five hatches, washed the deck and prepared to set sail.

Docking and undocking; that’s where the crew was needed most and since it was a coal ship it didn’t have a large crew compared with, say, a container ship of the same size. We were put to work. We had to haul the giant mooring lines on board and stow them below in what would probably be called the chain locker. These ropes had to be coiled perfectly in anticipation of docking: it wouldn’t do to have a tangled mess when the stevedores in Japan began pulling them to shore. It was a long grueling job, we were out of shape, and when finished the temptation was to go to bed. But, no way. We were under power and heading towards the first narrows on a beautiful fall evening

I’ve been under the Lion’s Gate Bridge before and many times since but this occasion was as unique as any thing I had done in my short life. The freighter steamed through the harbour as nightfall came. Ron and I leaned on the rail and watched the cars and buses going across the bridge. This was it! We were really going to sea! We watched the walkers on the sea wall watch us; some even waved. We went to our cabins tired and excited.

Morning came and with it whole new world.

to be continued…

Japan-4

Before the trip I had decided that I wasn’t into photography anymore and consequently didn’t bring a camera with me. What a mistake!. However, one of the people that Ron and I signed on with, another lowly decksgutte , did bring a little plastic camera. All of the pictures of the Belnor that I’m posting were shot with this camera.

This is the guy, I don’t remember his name but he was a newbie just like us.

Chaos greeted us. A little man with a red face was gesticulating and yelling in some foreign language at another taller man who had a case of beer tucked under his arm. Ron and I stood aghast as, in a final fit of rage, the little man grabbed the case of beer and threw it overboard! We thought there was going to be a major fight but the big man just walked away muttering oaths in what we learned later was Swedish.

The little man was our captain and the Swede was the Boson (sort of like the foreman in a normal world.) It turns out that this was what was called a “dry ship”, no booze on board. Most Seamen were heavy drinkers and they would stock up their cabins with enough booze to get them to the next port. This ship was a rarity in the seagoing world and the officers tried to make sure that the cabins were well searched and any booze found was held until port or, as in the case of the boson, tossed overboard. The ramifications of this policy were two sided and the dark side didn’t appear until we were well out to sea and the last of the hidden stock began running out.

The second mate signed us aboard and gave us our cabin numbers. We weren’t to be together! The policy was to put the new boys with experienced hands and I was to share a cabin with the ship’s carpenter. Ron went to a cabin with one of the regular deck hands. Of course, we both were forced to take the upper bunks; the lower and more desirable bunks were always allocated to men higher up on the totem pole (which in our case was just about everybody). Two men to a room, two bunks, one couch, one bureau, one tiny porthole which now looked into the dark gloomy world of Port Moody. Some of the crew had been on the Belnor for years and they had managed to claim single cabins for themselves alone. The cabins and hallways were sparkling clean and I was to learn how that came about pretty soon.

to be continued…

 

Japan-3

Soon after the trip I enrolled in an English class at University. The professor asked us to write a short essay/story on some past experience. 

Have you ever noticed the way sailors walk, with their hard rolling gate? I did but paid no heed to it. I realized, of course, that their sense of balance was more acclimatized to the sea than the land but that’s as deep as my thoughts on the subject went. I had a chance a year ago to fully explore their wonderful sense of balance.

I had signed on to a merchant ship leaving from Vancouver to Japan. The reason for this was not monetary but for pure adventure. Upon leaving the coast of Vancouver Island the ship began to hit some fair-sized waves and, consequently, began to roll. I noticed that the regular seamen, even those who hadn’t finished their liquor supply, seemed to be able to walk straight and narrow whereas I, completely sober, had trouble staying on one side of the ship, let alone the gangway, when it rolled. However, in time, I began to make reasonable progress and soon told myself that at last I had mastered the art of walking on a ship. What a letdown I had in store!

Five hundred miles off the coast of Japan the ship ran head on into a typhoon that buffeted the ship bow on. Sixty to seventy knot winds screamed through the radio and mast wires and caused huge waves to wash across the deck.

I was told that we were going to work up in the forecastle that day and consequently had to run up the full length of a wet, windy, slippery deck with the ship alternately seeming to roll over to 45 degrees from port to starboard. Well it’s obvious that I made it was, beyond a doubt, the most frightening experience of my life. I was forced to run a few feet when the ship seemed level and then grab frantically onto a hatch when the ship heeled over, tending to throw me over the rail and into the mad sea, and then, when she came back, to rush into the wind swept spray, trying hard to keep my balance on the slippery deck. When I reached the bow I was shaking from head to toe in exhaustion and fright.

It was, what you might call ‘a difficult’ walk, but I gained experience from it and after that I had no trouble with the ship’s roll. I learned how to walk on a ship and I will be the first to say “I learned the hard way.”

1962

I felt kind of ‘grownup’ after that trip and the professor recognized it. He told me that it was a pleasure to have someone in his class experienced in life instead of all the educational newbies that dominated.